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LES BONS PLANS ET RECOMMENDATIONS



Philippines - Malaysian Borneo - Indonesie - East Timor - Thailande - Vietnam - Cambodge- Laos - Inde




(source : BBC maps)

Country info :
see BBC news Country profiles.

VISA :

The visa in the Philippines is only 20 days on arrival but can be extended to 60 days for USD 100.

Onward Ticket :
is required but we dont really know what the deal is in the Philippines as we went in on a rtn ticket.

Money :
Banks Bureau de change only buy USD, but there are plenty of money changers about (check the shopping malls).
ATMs only dispense up to PHP4000 per withdrawal, but you can go to HSBC or another big foreing bank. (PHP40,000)
There are no banks in El Nido, and they charge 10 to 15% for cash advance and credit card payments.

Interesting Reads :
Songs from the Sulu Sea, by ??

PHILIPPINES
INFO :


Theres a new flight from Puerto Princesa to Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, Malaysia with South Phoenix Airways.


HIGHLIGHTS :

- El Nido : exploring the numerous islands all offering deserted white sand beaches with excellent snorkelling and diving. (our favourite was Helicopter island and Seven commandos) El Nido is also famous for the luxury resorts (Miniloc and Lagen) but there are a lot of good places to stay in the village. Imal is a good guide to take you out on snorkelling/diving trips. (ask Lally and Abet or Dive palawan for info)

- Port Barton : sleepy little fishing village with a mangrove forest nearby.

- Chocolate Hills of Bohol : its worth going to the Chocolate hills Complex but the accommodation there is skanky and there is nothing else but the view.
The best is to hire a motorbike and hop between the hills, but you can also call Ismael at the Nuts Huts in Loboc. He took us with his old jeep to tour other hills.

- The Tarsier Center : Just outside Loboc, Bohol has a dozen of rehabilitated litte tarsiers. There's no hiking trail though and its a long walk back under the sun.

Places we stayed at :
Malate Pensionne in Manila (PHP 700 to 1000)
Lally and Abet in El Nido (PHP 400)
Greenview resort in Port Barton (PHP 500)


Palawan info
Seair, flight schedule and price all over the Philippines
Cebu Pacific Air, for domestic and international flights


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VISA :
The visa for Sabah was 30 days and Sarawak 20 days for the French, although the Brits get longer.

Onward Ticket :

is required but it wasnt checked in Kota Kinabalu.

Money :
There are no banks in the Kelabit Highlands in Sarawak.

Interesting reads :
The Land below the Wind by Agnes Keith
Into the Heart of Borneo, by ??
The Sarawak Journal
Stranger in the Forest by ... ??

Costs :
Accommodation is roughly RM30 to 40 per room.

General sites about Borneo, National Parks, Tribes etc ..:
Sabah Tourism,
Sarawak Tourism

MALAYSIAN BORNEO

Somebody said there was a flight between Kota Kinabalu and Sulawesi .. Manado
we didnt know about with Asia Air, Malaysia airlines flies those destinations too ... for a little more.
Air Asia


HIGHLIGHTS :

- Mount Kinabalu : although it is a pretty tough ascenscion, it is definitely rewarding.
Dont forget to take warm clothes wih you but you can rent jackets in Laban Rata.
booking, permits, guide and general infos for the Kinabalu Headquarters are managed by
Sutera Sanctuary Lodges

- Kinabatangan River trip with Robert Chong of the LABUK B&B (RM20/head) in Sepilok.
They were about to open their jungle camp in september 2004 near Sukau. Both Robert and Fernando are excellent guides, and the B&B is a good base to explore Sepilok and Sandakan.
They can pick you up at the airport if you ring them ahead.
Labuk B&B : labukbb@yahoo.com
Jalan Labuk/batu 15 (mile 15)
P.o Box 555, 9006 Sandankan, Sabah. Tel - Fax : 089-544-190

- Orang Utan Rehabilitation Center in Sepilok.

- The Rainforest World Music Festival in Kuching is well worth checking if you're in the area. Artists come from around the world and very varied. There are still workshops in the afternoon but due to the success of the festival have become more show case than workshops. Gigs are at night over 3 nights. Usually takes place in early July.

- Bario, although we didnt have the opportunity to trek with Jaman, due to the SAR operation, Bario was an enchanting place despite the leeches.
Gem's Lodge : gems_lodge@yahoo.com

Place to stay in Miri : The Highlands B&B (RM25/head) run by 2 kelabits, on the water front, above the bar/restaurant "Wheels".

Info about Sarawak tribes
: Ibans, Kenyas, Penans etc ...
Borneo Online
Kelabit Net., infos about the Kelabit people and the region
ebario, project to bring internet to the tribespeople to stay in touch with their families !


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VISA :
You only get a 30 day visa on entry (USD25) but you can sometimes apply for longer tourist visas if you apply from a foreign country (we heard Kuching in Malaysia gave 60 days) or in your home country.

Onward Ticket :

is required and was checked although we didnt have one, Royal Brunei Airlines staff helped us in Jakarta.

Money :
Withdrawals are up to Rp1,500,000.

Airlines :
Merpati
Pelita
Lion Air
Star
Bouraq, all have a website with flight schedules

Pelni Boats
if you're there at the right time ...


INDONESIA

 

HIGHLIGHTS :


- Yogyakarta, for the cultural visits in Java, like Borobudur Temples, Prembanan temples and the Sultans palace, Water palace and the likes.

- The Temples around Bali

Chilling out and discovering Flores landscape and culture although we had a serious lack of time.
- Ankermi, on Flores island, Waiterang, near Maumere is definitely the place to stay. Kermi, Claudia and litte Arjuna will take real good care of you. (Rp 35,000/room) plus this is the land of the Hobbit or more seriously where they found the remains of a new specie of humanoid, the Flores man !
If you dont have time but a bit of money you can tour the island and villages with Hans Tour and travel.
contact : roymances@yahoo.co.uk

- Kelimutu lakes and Moni area has interesting villages producing Cocoa, vanila, avocados, coffee etc. and raise cows, pigs and small horses.

- Sulawesi : Healthy Island living in The Togean Islands, with plenty of corals and fishes.. we stayed at the Black Marlin, Rp 75,000 per person full board. The snorkelling was fantastic especially in Dominics Rock, Coral Garden, The Gap and Karina Beach near the Bajo Village. (the same boat dwellers as in the Philippines, the Bajau)

Timor Tour and Travel : in Kupang, Jl Tim-Tim n.8 Km8
Tel and Fax : 0380-881543
ticket costs :
150,000 Rp One way, 300,000Rp return

Merpati flies Kupang - Darwin for USD 157 one way or USD 338 for a 35 day return.


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VISA :
The visa to East Timor is 30 days and costs USD30.

Money :
Currency is USD, and there are a couple of ATMs around town.

VISA RUN from Indonesia :
If you don't intend to visit East Timor, the visa run to Dili could turn out to cost money and time.
Visa procedure : takes 5 working days to process although we heard you could "bribe" the official, its quite difficult in such a small office with only one window and 20 other people pushing to submit their application. Submission is in the morning between 9 and 12, and pick up in the afternoon between 15 and 16h00.
Cost : USD35.

transport 30, entry visa 30, lodging 80, food 80, visa 35,
a total of USD 155 minimum. (without beers ... !)

EAST TIMOR (TIMOR LESTE)

 

HIGHLIGHTS :

- Xanana reading room provides videos and litterature on East Timor history.

- Arte Moris, the free art school

- Villa Harmonia, in Becora, Dili. a family run B&B just outside town, is a warm and welcoming place. They are building new rooms and a Kitchen for the guests to use.
Pedro has also opened another place in Baguia, up in the mountains (Villa Rabilai) and he's full of very useful informtaion.

Leste Oeste Tour and Travel :
lesteoestedili@hotmail.com
Tel : 670-33-17404
Ticket costs :
USD15 one way, USD30 Return.

Timor Tour and Travel : in Dili, Jl 15 Oktover n.17,
Tel : 670-723-322095 Fax : 670-723-322095

Air North flies Darwin-Dili for USD250 return.

East Timor News
Timor Leste Sun
Discover Dili site

 

 

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VISA :
On arrival 30 days.

THAILAND

This time we hardly visited the city as we were waiting to get our visa for Vietnam sorted out.
(4 working days USD30 plus negligeble commission for the travel agent)
The Aruthaya neighbourhood is really pleasant and accommodation is cheap and clean...
The Fuji lab in front the Silom complex does a really good job and for a good price. THB100 for a slide film, theres also a good japanese restaurant chain inside the complex with Teishokus (meals) at around USD5 !

Flights to Hanoi were about USD140 one way but you can easily arrange other routes such as BK - Hanoi - Hochiminh - BK.

Places we liked :
Taewez, guesthouse on Sri Ayutthaya (near the National Library). The rooms are small but cheap (THB250) and the food is good (plus they charge per minute if you want to send a fax, whereas everybody else charges THB100 for a page)
Sri Ayutthaya Guesthouse, is a bit more expensive but for THB350 you get a really nice room with fan, and for 100 more you get a bathroom and/or aircon.
Its a lot quieter than Khao San road, and its only 2 stops away on the river boat.

 

 

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VISA :
The visa to Vietnam can be obtained from Vietnam consulates but is easier to get through a travel agent (easiest seems to be Thailand).
Initial tourist visa is for 30 days and costs USD30, and extension is either 2 weeks or one month (respectively USD22 and USD26).

Money :
Currency is VND but most businesses accept USD, there are ATM everywhere with a VND20,000 commission. Withdrawals are up to VND2,000,000.
USD1 = 15,000 dongs


Transport : The train is alright if you can get a soft sleeper. Hard sleepers are OK except for the few wandering hands and systematic look inside the compartment.
The open bus is a cheap way to get around.

Photocopied books
: you can get copies of the lonelyplanet and other guidebooks for as little as USD3. Of course, they're not the latest version.
You can also find a good selection of books about Vietnam and Cambodia such as :
Shadows and Winds,
Sorrow of War (really good novel about a Vietcong soldier)

VIETNAM

 

HIGHLIGHTS :

- HANOI old quarters, the place is buzzing with shops, motorbikes, vendors, motorbike taxis, cyclos and women in pijamas... we missed the Ethnology museum which is supposedly the most interesting one. There are some good restaurants in town, and one of our osusume is La Brique near the St Josephs cathedral. We also stayed in a nice family run hotel in the area called Thun tran. Rooms are nicely furnished with vietnamese furniture, and the girl speaks both excellent French and English.

- HALONG BAY, definitely worth doing even on a tour (and herded around).
The scale of the area makes it an extremely enchanting place.

- SAPA, in the Northwest also called the Vietnamese Alps by the French colons, is a good place to go trekking although its pricey. (we paid USD48 each for a 3 days 2 nights trek with homestay)
to our greatest disapointment, the so highly rated Moutain view hotel (USD6 for a room with hot water) seemed to care only for big groups and were totally uninterested in giving information about treks or any other useful tips for indepedant travelers, even though we were actually ready to pay and do the treks with them ...
The best way to explore the surroundings is on the back of a motorbike. Ta Fin was the friendliest place we went with less hasstle from the local Red Zao vendors.
Black Hmong and other tribes info

- HUE, the anciant capital, we spent a couple of days to have a look at the royal Tombs and the forbidden city. Entry to the sites cost VND65,000 each.

- HOI AN, the old city under the patronage of the Unesco is a beautiful city (a well conserved version of the old quarters of Hanoi) to chill out and shop (for clothes) before going down to Mui Ne.
Like Hanoi, reasonable accommodation ranges from USD8 to 15 (all with satellite TV and Air con). We didn't go to My Son to see the Cham ruins, but i guess they shouldn't be missed.

- MUI NE, enormous sand dunes and red canyons, and of course the white sand beaches.
Although when we were there it was Typhoon time in the center, resulting in higher tides and strong surf ... The fishing villages are well worth a visit, and renting out a motorbike is the best way to get around. (USD9 for one day, including petrol)

- HO CHI MINH CITY aka SAIGON and Mekong Delta, where we met our friend Mohalam.
The city is agreable, but mainly a good base to sort travel arrangements for the Mekong Delta. All the tours are roughly the same. Cuchi Tunnels and the War Remnants museum remain a must see.
We also did the 3 day tour finishing in Phnom Penh for USD31 per head. (excluding food and visa costs) although we would have liked to stay longer and do it independantly.
The tours get you to Caibe, Vinh long, Chau Doc with various stops (fish farms, floating markets, and fillers such as candy making factories and the likes). Still, cruising along the Mekong on a boat is the best way to experience it.

 

 

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VISA :
The visa to Cambodia was arranged in HCMC (Saigon) but your get a 30 days visa on arrival at the airport and other major landcrossings for USD25, renewable only once.

Money :
Currency is KHR, cambodian Riel, but most tourists can use USD, and cash TCs in USD. There are no ATMs in the country although you can get cash advances in major banks.
Commission on TC is 2%.
USD1 = 4,000 Riels

Transport : the roads are pretty bad so we tried to use boats as much as we could. (Speed boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, USD22 one way)

CAMBODIA

 

HIGHLIGHTS :

- PHNOM PENH, the Killing fields and the Royal Palace, National Museum etc...

- SIEM REAP, the temples of Angkor. The passes are quite expensive but the sites are well worth it.
1 day pass is USD20, 3 days USD40 and 7 days is USD60. Transport to and from the temples is by Tuk Tuk, or motorbike taxi. (usually USD6 to 10 for a full day) or you can get around on a bicycle for USD1 a day. (the distances are quite big though ..)
After trying the bicycle, we settled on the Tuk Tuk for USD6 : less hassle, nice breeze and a lot more freedom...
There we based ourselves in the Garden House, on watbo. For USD6 you get a spoteless and spacious room with fan and satellite TV.

- SIHANOUKVILLE, a nice place to chil out for a few days. Unfortunately we didnt have time to go to the nearby National Park.

other :
Pick up a free Guide to Siam Reap, Sihanoukville made by Canby Publications
Children's hospital (a free hospital for children)



 

 

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VISA :
The visa to Laos takes 2 working days and is 30 days (THB1300 for French, THB1500 for brits). You can get a 15 day visa on arrival but the extension is USD2 per day..

Money :
Currency is Lao Kip (about 10,000 for USD1) threre is one ATM in Vientiane, or withdrawals are possible at the counter, 3% commission for dollars, 2.5% for Kips.
They change TC for 1%.

Transport : roads are pretty bad
Bangkok - Vientiane, VIP night bus, THB650.

General infos :
Visit Mekong
Visit Laos

LAOS

HIGHLIGHTS :

- Vientiane, peaceful litle capital (61,000 people)... with various interesting wats here and there, and of course the That Luang, Golden stupa, but you can definitely skip the Buddha park (Wat Xieng Khuan) which was built by a monk who wanted to unify buddhism and hinduism ... by constructing statues of buddhas and various hindu figures and demons.
The Morning market sells all imaginable goods, including tribal handicrafts. Tourist Police is after the market, towards the monument.... upstairs the National Toursim Authority ...

-
Luang Phabang (or Luang Prabang), UNESCO world heritage site, is a lovely little town.
The most beautiful temple is across the river ...
You can visit the nearby hill tribe villages by trekking 2 or 3 days. There are heaps of travel agencies offering different tours. Tiger trails, who actually had a map of the area .. were the most competent in providing infos about the area.. (they also offer elephant riding..) but also the cheapest and with the best english !

- Phongsali, the town itself isn't that interesting but the 35 km trek we did was excellent. Needless to say, dont take a guide from Luang Phabang to the North as they still have to hire a local guide to introduce them to the villages. There are english speaking guides in Phongsali, just make an enquiry at the tourism office, or a guesthouse.

- Luang Namtha, although we didnt trek there, the newly opened National Park has lots of opportunities. Besides, the EU has funded the training of guides since october 2003, guaranteeing a good service. (We also talked to one of them ... )



 

 

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VISA :
The visa to India takes 2 working days and is valid for 6 months, multiple entries and costs 50 USD.

Money :
Currency is Indian Rupees (about 42 for USD1),ATM are widely available, except in the northern valleys of Kinnaur, Spiti and Lahaul.

Transport : trains are definitely the best way to get around, and the Indian Railway site is excellent. You need your passport to make bookings at the foreigners reservation office in Dehli...


General infos :
Incredible India


INDIA

HIGHLIGHTS :

- Mumbai, with its British colonial architecture is worth a look as well as the Bollywood scouting experience .. (only for white peole though ..)
Mutton street in the Choor Bazar sells about everything you could possibly want ... especially if you're into junk shops and antiques. Crawford market and the whole area is buzzing with street life and .. shops. We stayed at the Maria Lodge in Colaba, not bad but certainly not great with double with A/C and telly for Rp 550 ...

-
Goa, well, beaches, beaches and beaches, but also impressive old Portuguese architecture in Old Goa, and Panjim (Panaji)
We basically stayed between the main areas of Candolim and Calangute in a homey family run hotel right by the beach called Velina Villa, near Sodder's beach classic for Rp300 a night .. the Arjuna market is of course a must see .. to shop .. for gifts and souvenirs ...

- Jodhpur, the blue city is stunning .. and blue ... overlooked by the fort of Meherengarh, and the white marble mausoleum Jaswan Thada.
KP Haveli was a charming place to stay with doubles at Rp 300 a few minutes from everything.

- Jaisalmer, the golden city and Camel safari town ... with a beautiful fort and ... millions of touts and agencies to organise the main attraction ... the camel safaris to the nearby Thar Desert.
Our safari was 3 days 2 nights, Rp 550 per head, all included, on the other hand, the hotel room was 80 with private shower. The desert is definitely worth it !!

- Bikaner, desert city .. from where you can organise desert safaris, but apart from that, the place is not exactely exciting. The old city has some nice havelis and Jain temples, and the nearby Rat Temple dedicated to Karni Mata is worth a detour.

 

 

 


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